I don't get The Atlantic Monthly, but I might pick up the current issue -for the Twain story and maybe for this essay that has people all a'twitter:
http://slate.msn.com/culturebox/entries/01-07-27_112625.asp
The short of it concerns an "unpublished" book reviewers rant/essay that criticise book reviewers for lauding obtuse yet artful writing instead of praising story. It's an interesting argument. One made even more interesting in the face of news that prominent newspapers are trimming and even doing away with the whole concept of "book critic" or "book reviews".
Anyway, thought it was notable, even if not completely applicable to game reviewing.
-Andrew